I've tried to repair this type of connector before, and always failed. Usually when this happens, it pulls the copper off of the circuit board making it impossible to re-connect, and even if it doesn't, without solder paste and a soldering oven and/or hot-air reflow equipment, it seems to be impossible to get the solder where it's supposed to go without ruining the connector by getting solder inside it (which will cause short circuits and/or prevent the cable from being plugged into it again).
There is a 4-pin port next to the microcontroller chip that can be used to bypass the built-in USB connection. It's intended for attaching a serial bluetooth module, but you could also wire one of these cables to it: http://www.amazon.com/FTDI-Cable-5V/dp/B00DJBNDHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1388787180&sr=8-2&keywords=ftdi+cable
. This cheaper one should also work, and will be easier to adapt to the port's pinout, though I don't have experience with it (but I just placed an order for a couple to check out because they're so cheap): http://www.amazon.com/eFuture-PL2303HX-Converter-eFutures-Keyring/dp/B00F2F5HVK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1388788014&sr=8-6&keywords=uart+cable
Those cables contain a chip that does the same USB>serial translation that the board's own USB chip does, so you could wire it to those pins. When I requested this extra port on the board from Roy, I had him connect the board's own USB chip through resistors, so that the stronger signal from the addon device would override them if it was present. The port does not include a pin for autoreset functionality, so you would have to do any resetting manually (usually only necessary for updating firmware).
The alternative, of course, is to get a replacement controller board.