I'm sorry, I just unleashed the beast. I had to try it, surprisingly I am printing at lower than the reported temperatures, so its working so far. Just be careful not to go anywhere where the PEEK begins to become unstable...and toxic, I am calling this 235 or higher
That said: Lets make a nylon/618 discussion thread!
Anyone else want to post their thoughts, observations, tests or results? Seeing a post for this filament is what got me excited enough to finally get started printing.
It is strong, flexible, and slick! making perfect clips and mechanical pieces and wearables.
- It is said to behave much like ABS in how it prints
- it is more viscous, so more retraction is neccessary.
- It is reported to 'take longer for the initial filament to equalize, so a longer skirt is also recommended.
- There is a huge warping issue, I am still trying to find an ideal way to define the circumstances and ultimately a solution. For the bed, many 'cellulose' materials are recommended, such as wood, cloths or fiberous materials, or more nylon. When it sticks, it sticks extremely firmly, when it doesnt, it warps badly. Taulman has recommended Garolite LE
as an affordable ideal bed, but it is not perfect. Printing on a thin piece seems to cause such force that it will warp the entire board, also noted is it will bond fiercely, indicating the board will likely not be reusable if care is not taken. What is used by Taulman himself seems to be taping the center/base and foundation of the print, allowing the edges to bond to the board. More discussion regarding can be found on: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43634
. I have also seen some youtube videos where water was used on kapton tape to help loosen it, or glue-stick was prepped to help with a bond. A combination of things may end up proving well - but at least I can say at least painters tape is usable (but not ideal).
- I have heard recommendations to not drive the first layer to flatten down like PLA; that it should show up as a white layer rather than all clear.
- The 'best' bonding and flexibility seems to be reported from 245 degrees, reported at http://www.taulman3d.com/specifications.html
, but keep in mind we do not want to print anywhere near this temperature yet, as it will cause issues with the PEEK. I am getting good results between 195-210 for now.
- I am unsure whether it is due to the printers being used, but it was also recommended to print nylon slower, even less than 45mm/s.
So onto brainstorming,
I have suspicions that there is a trick to the warping, and that it could either be uneven cooling per layer, or something to do with the symetric shape of a part. I have printed the nylon derivative 608 bearings on thingiverse. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:35072
, which stuck to blue painters tape just fine. I downsized to print a smaller, lower, non symetrical print with plenty of spaces between walls and it warped up within 15 layers, and completely off by layer 60. I had worse results with warping after slowing down to their advised 30-44 mm/s. Possibility exists that my bearing print had the perfect speed to match the size and shape of the print, and that it cool evenly, especially since it was mostly circles.
I have ordered a bakalite/Garolite LE plate from McMaster Carr to test with, hoping to get it this weekend. Maybe I'll try the Glue stick ontop of Garolite and cross fingers.
Feel free to show your print results as well!