Bukobot 3D Printer Forum

News: Added the Bukobot Parts List (BOM) to Wiki at http://bukobot.com/bukobot-parts-list
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Author Topic: Jit's build instructions  (Read 3316 times)

redteam316

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 9
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #30 on: December 16, 2012, 09:18:31 PM »
Jamming that M3 nut initially in the terminal is the hardest part. I updated the wiki with an explanation and picture. My picture shows this concept, but a picture showing this before the terminal is attached would be better. It shouldn't be possible to do it after mounting, but trying this while attached to the x-carriage may damage the frame or other parts. My terminal is already wired up so if someone can update that picture clearly showing it before mounting would make more sense.

jit

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #31 on: December 16, 2012, 09:46:31 PM »
Apparently Deezmaker's recommendation is to jam the screw head down into the top of the terminal block, not the nut:

http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=2.msg156#msg156
Bukobot Duo v1

redteam316

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 9
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #32 on: December 16, 2012, 09:53:23 PM »
I did try that, and the bolt barely reaches the nut and then the nut keeps trying to spin instead of sucking down into the crevice, which is why I seated the nut inside first. Once it's in there a little bit, yes, that works, but getting it in there far enough to do that was challenging enough that it's good to document.

jit

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #33 on: December 16, 2012, 10:22:31 PM »
Had a closer look at this.

The M3x16mm screw is long enough, but only if you get the screw head all the way down.  Obviously, this takes a lot of force.

Personally, I think the M2.5x16mm socket head screw works better.  I just put a washer on before the nut, and everything works fine.
Bukobot Duo v1

redteam316

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 9
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #34 on: December 16, 2012, 10:37:10 PM »
I agree about the M2.5. I'm sure it would have been much easier. A washer on the bottom side between the bolt head and the aluminum plate would have been a better solution. I'm not sure if a M2.5 washer works as well as they want, but typically you can oversize or undersize a washer by one size and they will work fine.

Unfortunately, the extra hardware I grabbed from the local hardware store was only M3, M5 and M8.

jit

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #35 on: December 16, 2012, 11:14:02 PM »
I put the screw head on the top, and the washer and nut underneath.  It's much easier to reach in with the hex driver if the screw is on the top, and the socket head screw fits cleanly in between those plastic wells on the terminal block.

...I feel your pain, though.  There are NO hardware stores in my neighborhood that stock metric sizes smaller than M3!

Of course, we don't actually need to use metric for this task.  These aren't critical parts;  the whole point is to make the terminal block stick to the end of the extruder plate and not fall off.  A $4 assortment box of small hardware (metric or SAE) containing screws, nuts, and washers would probably contain everything you need for this.
Bukobot Duo v1

Lightn

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 27
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #36 on: December 17, 2012, 01:21:11 AM »
I'm to the flight check step, yeah!

I did run into a problem where all of the stepper motors were turning the wrong way.  I had to the reverse connectors for the X, Y, and Z motors for things to work correctly.

Now I'm concerned about the direction of the extruder motors.  The firmware doesn't want to let me turn those motors while the extruder is cold, so I can't easily tell if they are also backwards.  Is there a procedure for determining this?  Any idea why my motors would be backward from Jit's?

whosawhatsis

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 598
    • View Profile
    • Whosawhatsis on G+
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #37 on: December 17, 2012, 01:23:36 AM »
Sending the code M302 will allow cold extrusion. Unfortunately, Repetier seems to drop the code because it doesn't recognize it, so you'll have to use pronterface to do that test.

jit

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #38 on: December 17, 2012, 04:49:08 AM »
Regarding the proper orientation of the motor connectors, and motors running backwards:

Some of the images on the wiki may have the connectors on backwards.  If the motor run backwards, flip the connectors over. All of the connectors should be oriented the same way, I think.

People who have printers that work correctly should tell us how these things hook up.
Bukobot Duo v1

whosawhatsis

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 598
    • View Profile
    • Whosawhatsis on G+
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #39 on: December 17, 2012, 04:55:11 AM »
Also, note that we've seen a few motors with the red and green wires reversed. If this happens, just flip the connector so that the red and green are in the same orientation with regard to each other on each connector, regardless of which side of the connector they are on.

A four-wire bipolar stepper has two (sets of) windings. Reversing the polarity of a winding reverses the direction, and switching the two windings with one another also reverses the direction, which is why having one winding reversed can be fixed by reversing the whole connector.

Lightn

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 27
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #40 on: December 19, 2012, 01:25:36 AM »
I found I needed to reverse all of the motor connectors from what was shown in the photo I looked at.  I ended up with the red wires towards the reset button side.

Thanks for the help whosawhatsis.

whosawhatsis

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 598
    • View Profile
    • Whosawhatsis on G+
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #41 on: December 19, 2012, 01:55:15 AM »
I'm back in the shop now, and I can confirm that our X3 machines have the connectors in that orientation, with the pins visible on the top side of the connector housing. The X1 machines are oriented the other way. This is because of the different routing on the two boards (X1 has the stepper drivers in a row, X3 has them oriented site-by-side). It can be changed in the firmware, but we thought it was better to keep the two firmware configurations as similar as possible.

jit

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 174
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #42 on: December 19, 2012, 03:54:48 AM »
I put a note on the 'wires' page about the correct orientation.  Will replace some images soon.
Bukobot Duo v1

msfwebdude

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 11
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #43 on: December 20, 2012, 07:45:53 PM »
Success, thanks for the build instructions. I have a few screws and washers left over, and I should have read the instructions better and examined the photos more, but it works !!

http://youtu.be/cHA0O_fhAu4 

I found this Kapton film that I am going to cut and try out, I could never get the strips of tape to line up straight and just glass is not doing to well.
http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Kapton-Polyimide-Non-Adhesive-Amber/dp/B0032AM6FM/

Thanks again

TommyFive

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 14
    • View Profile
Re: Jit's build instructions
« Reply #44 on: December 20, 2012, 09:39:04 PM »
I found this Kapton film that I am going to cut and try out, I could never get the strips of tape to line up straight and just glass is not doing to well.
http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Kapton-Polyimide-Non-Adhesive-Amber/dp/B0032AM6FM/

Protoparadigm has a roll of 220mm wide Polyimide tape.  Much better bang for your buck, and you might not have to trim it at all!  (I can't promise the no-trimming - I haven't yet received my printer, only the filaments and other supplies so far).

 

BloQcs design by Bloc
SMF 2.0.3 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines