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Topics - jit

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1
General 3D Printing Talk / Adding a signature to your forum profile
« on: February 12, 2014, 07:50:25 PM »
As Deezmaker's printer models proliferate, there is an increasing tendency for people to get confused.  Someone will ask a question, and then someone else will respond with a reply that applies to a different model of printer.

We can reduce this problem by using signatures.  Click 'Profile' up near the top of the page, go to your Forum Profile, and add a signature that describes which model you have.  It will be displayed at the bottom of every post you make.

If your printer has been modified since Deezmaker first shipped it to you, for example if you are using a newer extruder or a different controller, mention that too in your signature.

It would be quite helpful if you also say which firmware version you are running on your Azteeg controller.  This is shown at the beginning of the long stream of text that is emitted by the Azteeg when you power it up.

And if you create pages on the wiki, make sure you put a notice at the top of the page that says which model(s) the page applies to.  This has already been done for many of the pages that pertain to the Bukobot v1 (see for example http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild-failure-conditions).

Thanks!

4
Just installed the new version of Slic3r.

It has some new settings.  Any recommendations for changing the default values for any of these, to optimize how things work on a Bukobot?

5
Now that I have fixed my extruder problem, and put the printer in a controlled environment, I am trying to print a wider variety of objects.

Up until now I have mainly been making objects with fairly large features, and those have been turning out pretty nice lately.  But now I'm trying things with small features.

Here is a test article:

http://bukobot.com/_media/wiki:jitsbuild:test1.png

(From left to right:  bottom view, top view with skirt, side silhouette)

I have attached the .stl file, and the .scad file used to make the .stl file.  (I would have given you the .gcode file too, but it's too big to attach here (just slightly) and you can't upload that kind of file to the wiki apparently.)  I had to add .txt to the end of the file names so they would upload, just strip that off.

Details:

OpenSCAD version 2013.01 (latest version)

Slic3r version 0.9.9-dev (latest version)

Firmware:  Marlin 1.0.0, 2012-10-11 Deezmaker

Slic3r settings:  Bukobot duo, basic fine, Black PLA,   all downloaded from the wiki, with no settings changed

Filament:  Diamond Age Black PLA

Ambient temperature:   26.8  +- 0.4 deg C, regulated

There are five pairs of pegs on top of this thing.  (There is also a thin wall on there, mainly to help the part sit up straight on the light table for the silhouette shot, and also a grab tab on the end, but let's talk about the pegs)

Each pair of pegs has one with a hole, and one without a hole.  The hole goes all the way through (well it's supposed to) and the size is nominally half the width of the peg.

Starting from the bottom of the image (-Y direction, pointing toward the front of the printer) there are four pairs of cylindrical pegs, and one pair of square pegs.  The holes in the cylindrical pegs are round, and the hole in the little square peg is square.

The holes are supposed to go all the way through, but some don't make it.  One doesn't even make it all the way to the top.

I am now doing some careful measurements of the pegs and holes with a caliper.  Will post those in next message.

6
You print something one day.  Comes out okay.

You print it again two days later.  Same .gcode file, same filament, same room temperature (or pretty close).  Same Bukobot, same voltage.  And this time, it comes out horrible.

See attached image.

As you can see, it's extruding just fine as it starts, when it's drawing the box around the print area.  And it's extruding fine as it starts to print the object.  But then it all goes to heck.

This print was stopped after a few layers.  (It doesn't get any better if you let it run longer.)

This is on a fresh layer of blue tape.  Using the clear PLA that came with the Bukobot.  Using Slic3r to slice, and the Slic3r profiles I downloaded from Deezmaker (clear PLA, basic, and Bukobot duo).

The only settings I changed from those downloaded profiles were the minimum layer time (changed from 15 to 25) and the temperature.  I tried this several times, with temperature ranging from 180 to 200.  All came out awful.  (But, every time the extruding started out looking good.)  The heater block is well insulated and has no trouble maintaining whatever temperature I ask for.

This behavior was accompanied by occasional nasty clicking sounds as the drive gear chewed up the filament.  The extruder lever is tightened all the way down, and has been the whole time.  The drive gear is gathering bits of plastic while this is going on, but I immediately clear that out with blasts of canned air, so it doesn't build up.

I've read all the other posts where people talk about things like this, and have tried all that was suggested there.  Problem just seems to be getting worse.

Any thoughts?

7
General 3D Printing Talk / make your own filament?
« on: December 28, 2012, 09:08:09 AM »
Now that we have open source 3D printers, next we need inexpensive open source machines that make filament.  This opens the door to custom colors and polymer mixes, in addition to the potential cost savings.

Filament can be made from pellets (which can be a lot cheaper), and also from recycled parts.  Machines to do this are expensive, but there is a push underway to drive the cost way down.

While searching Indiegogo for open source hardware projects, I found this:

http://www.indiegogo.com/osprintingllc

http://osprintingllc.com/category/extruder/

This is one of the groups working on a low-cost filament extruder.  Their campaign runs out in 23 hours.  I just gave these guys some money.


8
General Assembly Talk / contributions wanted for thermal management pages
« on: December 10, 2012, 11:54:37 PM »
One subject that is not covered well in the "jit's build" documentation (or anywhere else on the wiki) is thermal management.  In particular, for the hot ends and for the heated bed.  This is because I've never done it, and it's nowhere near as obvious (to me at least) as the mechanical stuff.  Those that have done it, haven't documented it yet.

Two pages have been set up where people can document what they've done in this area:

http://bukobot.com/heated-bed-preparation

and

http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management

If you have something that works well, please show it there.

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