Bukobot 3D Printer Forum

News: Added the Bukobot Parts List (BOM) to Wiki at http://bukobot.com/bukobot-parts-list
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Show Posts

* Messages | Topics | Attachments

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - jit

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
2
General Assembly Talk / Re: Jit's build instructions
« on: March 09, 2014, 05:27:06 AM »
Help! I just got my bukobot v1 and have no idea how to start. It is partially assembled yet, no wiring diagrams or instructions of any kind were enclosed. Can someone tell me where to start if there is a place? I am at line 0 with my knowledge. Thanks.

Are you sure it's a v1 Bukobot?  Seems kinda late for people to be getting those...

I have a v1.  http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild shows how mine was assembled.  It works.

3
General Assembly Talk / Re: Giant BukoBot
« on: February 23, 2014, 11:07:28 PM »
The Deezmaker guys have done these kinds of experiments.

For earlier discussions, see http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=2778.0.

4
Mac OS X Specific Software / Re: Problem with Repetier
« on: February 23, 2014, 10:56:45 PM »
Are you quite sure you have all of the thermistors connected to the correct terminals on the Azteeg?  (Some Azteegs have these marked strangely...)

I can't think of any sensible reason why you shouldn't be allowed to move in X because of a temperature measurement.  However, movement in X, Y or Z will be limited until you have homed that axis.

Also, see http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=3109.0.

5
General 3D Printing Talk / Adding a signature to your forum profile
« on: February 12, 2014, 07:50:25 PM »
As Deezmaker's printer models proliferate, there is an increasing tendency for people to get confused.  Someone will ask a question, and then someone else will respond with a reply that applies to a different model of printer.

We can reduce this problem by using signatures.  Click 'Profile' up near the top of the page, go to your Forum Profile, and add a signature that describes which model you have.  It will be displayed at the bottom of every post you make.

If your printer has been modified since Deezmaker first shipped it to you, for example if you are using a newer extruder or a different controller, mention that too in your signature.

It would be quite helpful if you also say which firmware version you are running on your Azteeg controller.  This is shown at the beginning of the long stream of text that is emitted by the Azteeg when you power it up.

And if you create pages on the wiki, make sure you put a notice at the top of the page that says which model(s) the page applies to.  This has already been done for many of the pages that pertain to the Bukobot v1 (see for example http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild-failure-conditions).

Thanks!

6
Sounds like you might have the microstep jumpers set wrong.  Which jumpers to use depends on your hardware version (and firmware version too, I think).

See this thread:  http://forum.bukobot.com/index.php?topic=2822.0

7
Electronics & Wiring / Re: White twisted wires on bed
« on: January 25, 2014, 11:17:58 PM »
If you have the Azteeg X3, it's the E1 connector.  See the X1 docs if you have the X1.

For more details, go to the Wiki (http://bukobot.com/) and search for 'thermistor connectors'.

8
Firmware / Re: Uploading Firmware to New X1 Board
« on: December 15, 2013, 02:18:50 AM »
Something is wrong here.  Better disconnect the wires from E0 and then measure those wires again.

On mine it measures thousands of ohms.

9
Firmware / Re: Uploading Firmware to New X1 Board
« on: December 13, 2013, 11:42:58 PM »
Ahhh.  I see.  You have a different version of the X3, the one with screw terminals.  For that one, you can measure the resistance by touching the multimeter probes against the tops of the corresponding screw terminals (where the screwdriver fits).

Are you sure you are measuring ohms, and not kilo-ohms?  In any case, those numbers still look wrong to me.

Verifying that the E0 terminals are connected to the extruder is not enough;  there are multiple things on the extruder that have wires coming out!  Hopefully you don't have the fan wires connected there...

Does the fan on the extruder turn on when the Azteeg is powered up with 12 volts?

10
General Software (Win, Mac or Linux) / Re: MINTEMP
« on: December 11, 2013, 06:11:27 PM »
Not sure about the answer to your question, but this is what I did when I had problems with ambient temperature affecting the printer:

http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild-thermal-enclosure

It worked amazingly well.

11
Firmware / Re: Uploading Firmware to New X1 Board
« on: December 11, 2013, 03:01:42 AM »
I was referring to the gold posts in the position marked "E0" on the edge of the Azteeg board itself.  The pair of wires from your extruder thermistor should be plugged in there.

See attached image.  The purple arrow at the bottom edge of the image points to where the E0 connector plugs into the board.  Pull this connector up about 2mm, without disconnecting it.  With the Azteeg controller powered down, reach under the connector with the ohmmeter probes and measure the resistance between the two gold posts.  This is the easiest way to measure the resistance of the device that is connected there (which should be your extruder thermistor).

If this resistance really does measure 18 ohms, then you probably have something other than your thermistor plugged in there.  This would explain why you get an error message when you run the printer.

If you have the wrong thing plugged in there, then swapping to a different Azteeg controller will not help you!  You have to get the wiring correct.

------------------

This is a different issue:

If all four of your driver boards are labelled "SD82A", then I think you need to have all three microstepper selection jumpers installed under each driver board.  Whosawhatsis should confirm that this is correct for your configuration, and that you are using the correct firmware for that configuration.

12
Firmware / Re: Uploading Firmware to New X1 Board
« on: December 09, 2013, 08:40:23 PM »
I'm not convinced that swapping Azteegs will solve this problem.  There seem to be other things going on.

Look at what's printed on top of your four driver boards.  Look for the label for the board type (see the attached picture).  It might say "SD82A", or "SD8825" or something similar to that, or perhaps something else.  How are yours labelled?

Also:  Power down your Azteeg, then pull the E0 connector up far enough to insert ohmmeter probes under it and measure the resistance between those two gold posts.  What is that resistance?


13
Hardware & Mechanics / Re: Problems when prints have frequent retraction
« on: December 08, 2013, 07:31:29 PM »
I recently made a discovery that may or may not be relevant to the problems some people have with retraction.

While doing maintenance work, I partially dismantled my extruders.  To my surprise, both of my Tatsu drive gears fell off as soon as I pulled the motors out of the extruder blocks.  They had worked themselves loose somehow.

This means that the end of the set screw had not been firmly pressed against the flat on the drive shaft.  Therefore, the Tatsus could rotate slightly relative to the drive shaft.  So each retraction was shorter than the amount specified in my Slic3r settings.  Also, there was friction between the Tatsu and the drive shaft, possibly leading to wear (and heating) at their interface.

When these were first assembled, I had firmly tightened the set screws.  But I was using a hex driver shaped like a screwdriver, not the kind with a right-angle (Allen wrench style) which can deliver higher torque.  And it's possible the set screws had not been precisely centered along the midline of the flat on the drive shaft.

Perhaps it would be a good idea for anyone who thinks that retraction may not be working properly to check that their Tatsu drive gears are not loose.

14
To level the z carriage, I used a can of soup.  The whole process is described at http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild-x-axis.  Scroll about halfway down the page until you see soup cans.

It's best to use one can of soup, not two.  Move the can from one side to the other, adjusting each threaded rod until the can fits snugly on both sides.

Regarding the assembly manual:  It takes a lot of time to write a really detailed one.  The more time the Deezmaker guys spend doing that, the less time they have for doing things that only they can do, like assembling kits, dealing with supply chains, improving their printers, inventing new stuff.  On the other hand, documentation can be written by users, while they assemble their own kits.

So that's what we did.  We crowdsourced the v1 manual.  Deezmaker didn't ask us to do it.  A bunch of Bukobot Kickstarter supporters just did it.  A reasonably complete assembly manual was ready by the time kit shipments was ramping up, just in time (jit!).  While that was going on, Deezmaker concentrated on improving the printer, and shipping.

There's nothing to prevent v2 users from doing the same.  For one example of how to do this, start here:  http://bukobot.com/jitsbuild

15
Some stepper motors come from the factory with the wires hooked up internally in a manner inconsistent with most other motors that look the same.  Don't know how common this is.

Sometimes people are fooled by the Y axis, because in this direction the coordinate system moves and not the extruder.  So when you increase Y, the platform moves toward the front of the printer.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
BloQcs design by Bloc
SMF 2.0.3 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines